Issue 14. * September 28th, 2022
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This month, we'll zoom in on something that Copenhagen has caught a lot of international praise for over recent years: Food!
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If you know a little bit about Copenhagen and Denmark, you're probably pretty familiar with the term New Nordic Cuisine. World-renowned restaurant noma, has been in the limelight for quite some time and still is going strong.
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But when we talk about restaurants, Copenhagen is so much more than high-end gastronomy. Today we'll point you in the direction of a few newer restaurants which has something different to offer. But of course, we have to mention that the world's best restaurant still is in Copenhagen, though it is not noma at the moment.
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- World's best restaurant - Geranium
- Bring everyone you know - Janice
- New favourite in town - Pegasus
- Meet a Copenhagener - Baka d' Busk
- Dinner with a view - The Silo
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As you might notice, seasonal ingredients are very much a thing and a common denominator for many of the most interesting restaurants in Copenhagen. Let's get those taste buds ready because now we're cruising into delicious-town.
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Let's start with the best, and when we say best we mean it literally. Theworlds50best.com has named Geranium as the number one restaurant in the world in 2022. It's also one of only two restaurants in Denmark to hold three Michelin stars, the other being noma.
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You wouldn’t think that the best restaurant in the world was located in a Football stadium, but that’s the case with Geranium, which has the Danish national football stadium as home. We're not going into any comparisons to the danish national team, though. Let's just state that the food at Geranium is as fantastic as you would expect from the world's best. The gastronomic experience is like no other.
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Recently Geranium has taken some dogmatic choices for a Michelin restaurant. For instance, as of 2022, they have completely removed meat from their menu. Not to prove anything but to further challenge themselves innovatively.
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As you can imagine, getting a table at the world's number one restaurant is something that takes a bit of planning and effort, so don't expect to waltz in for lunch 😉
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BRING EVERYONE YOU KNOW - JANICE
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Seasonal ingredients, a long list of natural and classic wines, and good taste before dogma.
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Janice is an unusual restaurant and wine bar at Vesterbro that feels almost as cozy and familiar as your dining room at home. The place is run by sommelier, Marc van Hauen, and chef, Frede Sten Madsen, who've swept critics and locals off their feet with delicious dishes and wines that change daily according to available ingredients.
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Photo: Marc Skafte-Vaabengaard
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Bring your grandparents, your parents, your partner or your kids. We know, everyone will love it and can't recommend visiting enough. You'll find everything you need to know on their website.
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NEW FAVOURITE IN TOWN - PEGASUS
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The two architects, Mathias Mentze and Alexander V. Ottenstein, have recently redesigned the whole café, drawing on the iconic architecture and furniture of Den Frie by J. F. Willumsen. And now, this unique intersection between good food and art has become a local hangout.
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Pegasus’s changing menu focuses on seasonal ingredients, quality, simplicity, and generosity. And when Den Frie opens at 10.00, you can enjoy a delicious selection of sandwiches, salads, small dishes, and a day’s dish inside or in the courtyard. In addition, you’ll find drinks such as homemade iced tea, soft drinks from Naturfrisk, natural wine, beer, and coffee.
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Foto: Marc Skafte-Vaabengaard
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Whether you're an artist, art lover or just a passer-by, this is a great gathering place to meet and break bread so to speak.
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PHILIP NUSSBAUM VARLEV - BAKA D' BUSK
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Visiting Baka d’ Busk is not only a great gastronomical experience. Here you will be served something for all your senses. The restaurant was opened in 2018 by six friends, who call themselves “Plantedrengene” (The Plant Boys). Among the six entrepreneurs, some are trained chefs, but other crafts are in play, such as blacksmithing, media production and visual arts. This constellation contributes to a very distinct dynamic you’ll notice as you’re seated for the night.
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The kitchen is a plant-based bistro. The menu changes with the seasons, and the availability of locally grown crops decides what will end up on your plate.
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We popped by for chat with one of the founders, Phillip Nussbaum Varlev.
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Foto: Marc Skafte-Vaabengaard
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Can you tell a little about yourself and what you do at Baka d’ Busk?
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My name is Philip Nussbaum Varlev, and I’m 32 years old and co-owner of the plant bistro Baka d’ Busk. Our goal is to make vegetables sexier and make sure that people eat vegetables without missing meat. We would like to, instead of having one meat-free day of the week, only have one meat day a week. We are meat eaters here ourselves but we only eat organic Danish meat from animals that have had a good life.
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What can you expect from an evening at Baka d’ Busk?
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You can expect to be taken well care of. You should just lean back and let the spirit take hold of you. I take great pride in the atmosphere which should be adventurous, charismatic and likeable. Sometimes it can be a little cheeky as well. We have youthful nature and lots of self-irony. Then there is the food, of course, which is a big part of our identity. We treat vegetables in a respectful and fun manner and like to follow the season in regard to produce. Just like the servings changes with the season the art on the wall changes. We exhibit primarily young artists, from the Copenhagen art scene.
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How do you see yourselves in relation to the Copenhagen gastro scene?
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I’m looking over at the other side of the street, where there is a 1-star Michelin Restaurant, run by Jonathan Tam (JATAK), which is a fantastic place. But that has not much to do with us. I’m not really sure where we lie because we are not Michelin in any way; we are a bistro but perhaps not a classic bistro. I don’t think you’ll find that many restaurants are owned by six friends with a flat hierarchy, a bit of anarchy. We are six crazy plant boys that can do a lot of different things.
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What else should you try here in the neighbourhood?
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Things are going fast here in Nørrebro; lots of cool things are happening. I was at Silberbauers bistro yesterday and ate onion pie. I like Jah Izakaya in Vesterbro, which one of our friends, Sigurd, is co-owner of. Then most of us are old Floss boys; I would always like to give a shout-out to Floss bar. Tokyo is a cool restaurant on Vesterbrogade, an old family-run Japanese restaurant.
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How would you describe the perfect day here in Copenhagen?
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I like to hang out at Nicolai Wallner gallery in Nordvest. There is a fleamarket around the corner, "Svalernes Loppemarked" at Natttergalevej. I go there to pick up things for the restaurant. After that, I'd go to a cool place called Dzidra at the Red square, which just opened. Then catch an afternoon showing at Vester Vov Vov. A beer at Café Nick at Nicolajs Plads and drop by Bar'vin at skindergade to say hi to Niels and have some cheese and wine. Japnese food at Bento at Vesterbro, La Fontaine and listen to some jazz, then Floss for Arnbitter and The Stones. And end it all with a rave where my friend Popismix is at the turntables.
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Do you have a hidden gem you would like to share with us?
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It’s something you really shouldn’t answer. I like Café Malmø; we played billiard there the other day and of course Den Vandrette next door where you have flowers on the ceiling and in the wine. A hidden gem... Nha Trang over on the other side maybe. Okay to hidden gems, one on Østerbro and the other on Frederiksberg. Captain H Korean Chinese Barbecue bistro, which lies down in the basement at Blegdamsvej, and the other is Café Intime at Allegade.
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DINNER WITH A VIEW - THE SILO
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On top of an old grain silo turned residential complex lies a beauty of a restaurant, or actually the view from up there is the beauty. Restaurant Silo has stunning views as far as the eye can see, over the city and the harbour; you’ll wonder if you came there to eat or just look out the window.
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Jokes aside the food are of course the main attraction. With the option of both lunch and dinner, there’s no excuse not to drop by. The menu changes by the season and the Chef’s mood - no rules or dogmas apply in this kitchen.
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The building The Silo is probably known by a lot of Copenhageners for what it was before the big makeover when it was just a giant grain silo with some iconic Grafitti text written on it. Now it’s almost unrecognizable and houses some of Copenhagen’s most exclusive apartments, and Restaurant Silo at the top of course.
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If you have the chance, don't miss out on this one.
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That's it. The top of the iceberg. If you want to take a deeper dive into the restaurant scene in Copenhagen, you will find lots of useful information in the Eat & Drink section of our website. Knock yourself out.
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In a month or so, we'll be back with more great insights to what Copenhagen has to offer.
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Andrea, Frederik og Kasper, Copenhagen Unfolded
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Copenhagen Unfolded is published by VisitCopenhagen. Our goal is to tell the world about Copenhagen and the great experiences that are to be had here. Be sure to also check out www.visitcopenhagen.com and our social channels.
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This issue of Copenhagen Unfolded is put together by Kasper Syhler, Frederik Ibsing and Andrea Sonne.
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