Issue 19. * February 15th, 2023
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And we're back. This time we'll unfold not only Copenhagen but some of the exciting stuff you can see and do beyond Copenhagen's city limits.
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Copenhagen has so many things to offer, if you're feeling adventurous and at ease, with jumping on a train or a bus (it's easy) we invite you to go north and explore.
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There is some great stuff to dive into. Nature, food, architecture, history, and culture. All the big ones.
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So hang on as we take a trip to:
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- Klampenborg - The Deer Park
- Bellevue - The Samuel
- Rungstedlund - Karen Blixen museum
- Værløse Airbase
- Lyngby - The Open Air Museum
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Get a train ticket, set your course, and get ready for a little break and some good times away from the city beat.
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Do you need to get away from the hectic city life and breathe a little deeper? Then a visit to the Deer Park in North Zealand could be the perfect place to take a well-deserved break. And the best part about it? It’s only a 20-minute train ride north of the city centre.
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The huge nature park is filled with wooded areas, small lakes, and open plains that provide the perfect setting to get lost in and experience that feeling of freedom nature provides. If you're lucky, you'll come across a herd of grazing animals, as the park is home to more than 2000 wild deer.
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Foto: Thomas Høyrup Christensen & Jacob Lisbygd
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Foto: Thomas Høyrup Christensen |
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The Deer Park is recognized as UNESCO World Heritage, as part of the historical hunting grounds of the Danish royal family. The royal hunting lodge, called The Hermitage, is an eye-popping symbol of this legacy – an impressive Baroque castle overlooking vast grasslands and forests on all sides and is definitely worth a visit.
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It’s possible to see much of The Deer Park on foot, but biking will let you cover more ground and really give you the full experience. If you don't have your own bike, you can rent one from Birger Kjærbye, who runs Café Parforce - a combined café and bike shop. Birger has a true passion for biking and the Deer Park and knows how to guide you to the areas of the Deer Park that shouldn't be missed.
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Read more about the biking experience in the Deer Park here.
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Don’t miss out on a unique dining experience at The Samuel - Where the aspects of fine dining come together perfectly.
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Just 8 km north of Copenhagen you’ll find Michelin-starred restaurant The Samuel, a sophisticated but down-to-earth restaurant in a beautiful historic 19th-century apothecary villa.
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The restaurant is run and owned by chef and sommelier, Jonathan K. Berntsen and the maítre d'hotel, Rasmus Knude. Jonathan is no stranger to Michelin stars or awards. He got a Michelin star for his now-closed restaurant Clou and numerous awards for his devotion to pairing wine and menu. So we’re indeed in the presence of a chef who knows how to balance taste and sensory experiences.
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The food at The Samuel is classic, primarily French, Spanish & Italian, and can seem a bit simple to the untrained eye, but don’t be fooled. The dishes are brimming with a gigantic twist filled with creativity and natural flavours. Most of the seafood, game and vegetables are locally sourced in Denmark, but the restaurant is not restricted by its own or any other region. For Jonathan Berntsen and Rasmus Knude, quality and taste are paramount, so you can expect to find ingredients from, for example, The Amalfi Coast, simply because they taste better.
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At The Samuel, it’s about the symbiosis of food and wine. Sometimes the wine is even chosen before creating the dishes, so the menu is carefully selected to precisely complement the wine menu.
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Curious about more exciting food experiences Beyond Copenhagen? Then read our guide to places to eat Beyond Copenhagen.
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RUNGSTEDLUND - KAREN BLIXEN MUSEUM
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Karen Blixen was one of her kind and has left a strong impression from the way she approached both life and literature. Her legacy lives on in her books and in Rungstedlund, where she grew up and lived for large parts of her life. Today it’s a museum that tells the story of this remarkable woman, Karen Blixen.
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We had a conversation with Christina Kaas, who works at Rungstedlund with Tourism and visitor cooperation, about the museum, Karen Blixen and the area of Rungsted in general.
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Foto: Annemette Kuhlmann & Jacob Lisbygd
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Tell us a little bit about yourself and your role in Rungstedlund.
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I am pleased to work in one of Denmark’s most beautiful workspaces, Rungstedlund. Every day is an adventure. The house is filled with stories, so you learn something new daily. Of course, Karen Blixen is the centre of attention in everything we do, but there is also a long and fascinating story attached to Rungstedlund.
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For more than 20 years, I have lived in Rungsted and owned different houses; all have been subdivisions of the Dinesen family’s land. I didn’t add value to that before I became an employee here and learnt more about the Dinesen family.
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What can you expect from a visit to Rungstedlund?
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Walking around the museum, you clearly sense its long history. A big part of the house is an intact writer’s home as when Karen Blixen was alive, and her presence evidently still fills up some of the rooms. For example, her bedroom is experienced as being very intimate and private. There are also changing special exhibitions, and literate and cultural events are held every week.
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Another vital part of the museum is the outdoor spaces, freely accessible to guests around the clock; loved by many locals. The great beautiful garden and bird sanctuary are visited by more than 116.00 people throughout the year, which would have pleased Karen Blixen. It was in her power to ensure the nature and bird sanctuary for the migratory birds after her death.
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Can you put a few words on how Karen Blixen influences the present?
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As the most translated Danish author, there is no way around Karen Blixen in Danish and foreign literature. Her writing was innovative in her lifetime and has since been an object of numerous interpretations and inspiration to many artists, writers, and readers. Today Karen Blixen is a literary luminary, interpreted in many guises from ballet, theatre, films, and art.
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Karen Blixen created the foundation of Rungstedlund in 1958, where she bequeathed all her earnings to the foundation to preserve Rungstedlund and the bird sanctuary. That was very generous of her.
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How does the perfect day in Rungsted and its surroundings look like, according to you?
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The perfect day in Rungsted starts with a dip in the ocean. Preferably in quiet and a bit cold water at dawn. Next, I take a nice walk along the water with my dog. This can only leave you happy and excited about what the day will bring.
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The lunch is consumed at the Karen Blixen Museum with a good friend. I’m not saying this to advertise our own café, but because it is really cosy with great food and a beautiful view of the forest, ocean and numeorus birds.
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I love art and culture, so I keep an eye on the local galleries and museums. If the weather is nice, I enjoy a “walk & talk” with my girlfriends in the Folehave forest or explore the Arboretum. The evening will definitely be spent at Rungsted Harbour.
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If the sun is shining and the weather is mild, the evening starts with a drink at the beach bar Oddies with sand between your toes while I’m looking at Rungstedlund and watching the sunset behind the bird sanctuary. The day ends with a lovely dinner at Bistro no. 22 and a walk home along the water.
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Do you have a hidden gem or a secret spot you would like to share with us?
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When you visit Rungstedlund and go for a walk in the bird sanctuary, you will pass by the grave of Karen Blixen. She is buried underneath a 300-year-old beech at the foot of a Bronze Age mound, which she calls “the true Ewald’s hill”, named after the poet Johannes Ewald. He was a feted artist in the 18th century who, for a couple of years, lived and wrote poems at Rungstedlund.
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Karen Blixen loved all animals and not just birds. There were always dogs in the family, and her beloved dog Pasop is also buried next to her. It is only a few people who know this.
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Have you ever wondered what would happen if you abandoned a military airbase, and let nature do its thing? Ok maybe it's a rather specific example, but that's sort of what has happened with the Værløse Airbase. Offering a slightly different nature experience and is just 20 km northwest of Copenhagen.
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The military airbase used to house fighter jets and rescue helicopters, and you can still feel the history of this place and all of the exciting events the hangars have seen. If you are a plane aficionado, you can still experience some of the fighter jets, planes and helicopters in one of the hangers. Here are volunteers taking care of the planes, and have plenty of stories to tell about them. You can even get a lifelong childhood dream fulfilled and try to sit in one of the fighter jets.
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Foto: Thomas Høyrup Christensen
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The 3 kilometres long and 50 meters wide runway is the main attraction at the airbase. How often do you get to walk on a runway? On the weekends it's used by rollerskaters, cyclists, kitesurfers, dog walkers and many more. It's also allowed to go camping on the airbase, where you can bring your own tent or use one of the shelters in the area.
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There's a kind of haunting and captivating feeling when you explore the abandoned plane hangars. But not all of them are empty. Shelter 214 is a rustic café located in one of the old jet hangars. It's the perfect place to get a coffee, sit in the lounge chairs, and soak up some sun.
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GO BACK IN TIME AT THE OPEN AIR MUSEUM
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The open air museum is the closest thing we get to a time machine. A huge outdoor museum with over 50 farms, mills and other houses from the period 1650-1940. It's differently an alternative experience and like a journey through Denmark in different ages.
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The whole museum covers about 86 acres of land, so be sure to get your walking shoes on. There are houses from all over Denmark including the Faroe Islands and the former danish provinces in southern Sweden and northern Germany. To complete the going-back-in-time experience, there are people all over the museum dressed in old fashion traditional clothing, like back when the farms and houses were used.
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While you are here, be sure not to miss the small idyllic town of Brede. Located right next to the open air museum. Brede sits right on Mølleåen (the mill river) which gets its name from the many water mills there used to be back in the day. Brede is just a small collection of old buildings and a picturesque lake right next to it. The perfect place to sit and relax.
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Wasn't that nice, getting out of the city for just a little while? Anyway, we believe that broadening you're horizon is both important and fun.
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What do you think is this something, you would like to see more of?
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Next time we'll be back in the city though, so look forward to that. We do! Thanks for reading and let us know what you think of this issue (or any issue) of Copenhagen Unfolded ❤️
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We'll be back in about a month. Until next time!
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Kasper, Copenhagen Unfolded
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Copenhagen Unfolded is published by VisitCopenhagen. Our goal is to tell the world about Copenhagen and the great experiences that are to be had here. Be sure to also check out www.visitcopenhagen.com and our social channels.
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This issue of Copenhagen Unfolded is put together by Kasper Syhler, Frederik Ibsing, Clara Fuglsang Søgaard, and Julie Horn.
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