It’s been a decade since I last visited Normandy — a somewhat ridiculous sentence considering most people have not visited Normandy, period. But in 2015, I spent a month near the white-cliffed, seaside village of Étretat, researching my first novel. Returning to this same corner of France, this time for the famed Deauville American Film Festival, feels cinematic to me (picture a woman driving up from Paris, rolls of hay whooshing by, Max Richter playing). To be fair, the region feels cinematic to everyone. Deauville is both historically and currently glamorous — the old haunt of Coco Chanel or, say, Gustave Flaubert, and this year’s film festival honoree, Pamela Anderson. In the film world, this is the season of Venice, of Toronto, but every filmmaker I know dreams of Deauville for its boardwalk as much as its red carpet. Thus, in a nod to the form and function of the place, I present a tribute in three acts to one very glamorous weekend. This one takes place 30 miles, 10 years, and a world away from my days of bookish research.
Act One: Paris
We open on a meticulous breakfast of mango, berries, and croissants at Fouquet’s Paris, followed by a medical-grade nap in a courtyard-facing room. Flower arrangements abound and a sense of decadence lingers in the air (someone has sprayed a bergamot perfume near the elevators) and on the ground (someone else has lost a necktie on their way to the spa). The skies part during a walk to the 6th arrondissement, so new shoes are purchased at Rubirosa's. That evening, a plate of truffle pasta is served at Brasserie Fouquet’s. On the way out, we zoom in on a glass case of napkin rings bearing the names of regulars and various French celebrities.
Act Two: Deauville
Check-in time at the half-timbered Hotel Barrière, Le Normandy, a blend of character (bronze animal sculptures are affixed to the roof) and comfort (every toile-heavy room is peaceful, every request promptly addressed). With the festival’s red carpet across the street, the lobby has an LA buzz overlaid with a clubby vibe. After a trip to a stereotypical French market — cue the perfect produce and cheap sweaters — and a meander past a preposterously cute carousel, we experience a seafood montage at Le Bar de la Mer: towers of fresh shrimp glinting in the sun steps away from the bright umbrellas dotting the beach. We see the chic changing huts on the Promenade Des Planches, stenciled with the names of famous festival attendees past.
Act Three: The Grand Finale
Our raison d'être: le cinéma. But before the glamour of the red carpet, we flashback to the mahogany bar at the hotel, where martinis and gougeres (French cheese puffs) are consumed next to fellow filmgoers in high-slit evening gowns. What is it about getting a facial at a hotel spa that makes a person want to immediately undo all that cleansing? Next, we sit in a massive theater watching speeches in French and a dance performance. We screen Begonia, the new feature from award-winning filmmaker Yorgos Lanthimos. The mood is only dampened by the reality that this crowd will have to wait months until they can discuss the film with absolutely everyone. Spirits are lifted at the iconic restaurant Ciro’s, where our heroine approaches Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu to say she’s “un grand fan.” Here, a life lesson and a fact collide: 1) One should never hesitate to reveal their fandom to a celebrity before immediately walking away and 2) Proficiency-wise, it’s best to speak French at a 6th grade level so one has no other choice but to make a swift escape.
Epilogue
It’s time to drop our sparkliest items into pouches, wash off our makeup, and head back to reality. Leaving Deauville, through the car window, we focus on an elderly man reading on a bench between weeping willows. To his left is a small dog. To his right is a red bicycle. We think: Why, it’s like a scene from a movie.
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The bouclé skirt suit. The quilted leather handbag. The Camélia brooch and capped ballet flats. Chanel’s signature designs speak for themselves. What’s vital to know, however, is that every piece embodies century-old craftsmanship, which the brand is dedicated to preserving, as confirmed by le 19M. The Paris-based complex houses 11 Maisons d'art and over 700 artisans and experts specializing in embroidery, featherwork, millinery, shoemaking, and more. The venue is also home to la Galerie du 19M, a free exhibition, workshop, and education space that invites the public to interact with, and be inspired by, these creative minds. On September 30, le 19M takes its offerings abroad, unveiling la Galerie du 19M Tokyo, a “space of dialogue and wonder” dedicated to heritage craft, told in three chapters. The first, Le Festival, is an immersive installation designed by the Atelier Tsuyoshi Tane Architects agency that pulls the curtain back on craft processes. The second exhibition, Beyond Our Horizons, features experimental creations from nearly 30 Japanese and French artisans and artists. Exploring the intersection of tradition and innovation, the works are curated by five local creatives: Momoko Andô, Yoichi Nishio, Shinichiro Ogata, Kayo Tokuda, and Aska Yamashita. Rounding out the experience, the legendary French embroidery and weaving house Maison Lesage will debut Lesage. 100 years of Fashion and Decoration., a retrospective honoring its centennial anniversary. Tsuyoshi Tane, the lead architect behind Le Festival, sums up the importance of the activation well, stating: “This installation is a commitment to highlighting the significance of handmade work and ensuring that these skills and knowledge are passed on to future generations. Every action that gives visibility to craft, whether through architecture, fashion, or other forms, is essential in preserving and celebrating craftsmanship in its most human form.”
La Galerie du 19M Tokyo will be on display from September 30 to October 20, 2025, on the 52nd floor of the Mori Tower in Tokyo’s Roppongi Hills.
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Milan has firmly shaken its all-work, no-play reputation. After a spell of serving as Italy’s all-business hub, it has revived its appreciation for (and celebration of) the art, interiors, and fashion industries that have long been a part of the ancient city’s modern existence. But a quiet sense of routine and reliance on quotidian rituals remains — from morning espresso stops to Sunday afternoon strolls around Parco Sempione. Even the city’s Maria Theresa yellow buildings reflect Milan’s ongoing commitment to tradition. Lucrezia Buccellati is very familiar with such Milanese customs. A fourth-generation member of the Buccellati family (of the eponymous jewelry brand), she grew up in the city, watching her grandfather and father in their workshop and visiting the brand’s Via Monte Napoleone store. Now, as co-creative director of the brand (alongside her father, Andrea Buccellati, also the brand’s president), Lucrezia is pulling on those memories to usher Buccellati into a new era that holds onto its prized craftsmanship and heritage while also embracing the moment — much like the city itself.
Here, she shares a few of her favorite places within her hometown.
Something to eat and drink … Saffron-infused Risotto alla Milanese paired with a chilled glass of Franciacorta at my favorite spot, Dal Bolognese. For an aperitivo, try the negroni sbagliato at the Portrait Milano hotel.
Something to see … Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece “The Last Supper” is wondrously hidden in plain sight inside the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. When I’m seeking contemporary art, Fondazione Prada has an exceptional collection.
Something to take home … Timeless Milanese craftsmanship, wrapped in heritage and elegance — ideally a handmade piece of Buccellati silver or jewelry, of course. I particularly love the Macri cuffs.
Only in Milan … A stroll through the Orto Botanico di Brera, a majestic, historical botanical garden that dates back to the 14th century. You would never guess it sits in the center of the city. And no visit to Milan is complete without a visit to Castello Sforzesco, the 14th-century fortress and palace that also houses eight museums and Michelangelo’s masterpiece “Rondanini Pietà.”
A secret place … De Santis is a little hole-in-the-wall, which originally opened in the 1960s, where you’ll have the best Italian sandwich of your life.
Read our conversation with Lucrezia and Andrea Buccellati, and more close takes on a wide world, in our Spring/Summer 2025 print issue. Order now.
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Tucked away in the Catskills hamlet of Hensonville, New York, resides an idyllic rural retreat: The Henson. The 16-room inn was created by chefs Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra (famed for their New York City restaurants Contra and Wildair) in collaboration with Danielle and Ely Franko (the duo behind the popular Instagram account The Hunter Houses).
The foursome joined forces to transform a rundown 12,000-square-foot hotel into an intimate getaway attuned, naturally, to culinary and design admirers. Located at the intersection of Windham Mountain, Black Dome Valley, and Hunter Mountain, it’s also a prime site for outdoors enthusiasts in search of skiing or hiking adventures. Upon arrival, I was drawn to the property’s sunlit living room, where moody couches and chairs inspire guests to crack open the property’s classic board games and books — or chat with fellow guests in front of the crackling fireplace. The following day, the lawns enticed me into a game of bocce, after which I retired to the rooftop deck to take in humbling views of the undulating mountains. Given the professional pedigree of the hotel’s founders, I also had high expectations for the cuisine. Every one of them was met. Breakfast introduced homemade breads, quiches, and cakes alongside small plates featuring locally sourced bites, such as soft eggs, cultured butter, and granola. Matilda — the property’s restaurant and bar, which has become a beacon for locals — similarly serves an ever-changing menu highlighting the region’s best ingredients, often sourced from nearby farms. Thankfully, two of my favorite dishes are available year-round: the Amish golden chicken and green salad with alpha tolman, lovage, mustard greens, and cashew vinaigrette. (It’s really something special.) Still, I can’t wait to sample what other seasons have to offer at The Henson, on the table and in the scenery.
Word to the Wise. Across the Catskills, many small towns have seen a surge of new, destination-worthy businesses. From Hensonville, head an hour southwest to Callicoon, home to Seminary Hill Orchard & Cidery, ideal for small-batch cider tastings or dinner. If imbibing in the cider requires you to stick around, check in to the company’s Michelin Key-awarded hotel, the Seminary Hill Boarding House, which offers apartment-style rooms in classic Shaker style. Just a few steps away from the boarding house, Pollinator Spirits (a subdivision of Catskills Provisions) also provides tempting tastings and dining. Notably, the small-batch Nocino is a delight.
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My first monograph, Twelve Acres, is a body of work made between 2023 and 2024 in the rural countryside of the Ozark Mountains, where I grew up. I worked with a few younger guys from Northern Arkansas, where I now live, to reimagine my childhood experiences of friendship, boredom, and mischief. The Ozarks have a quiet, understated beauty: slow-moving creeks; low, rolling hills; deep caves; and pale limestone bluffs. This land was the backdrop for a formative friendship I had as a teenager, when I was trying to make sense of myself and the world around me. We would spend our days after school together, getting lost and escaping confusing home lives and the impending responsibilities of adulthood. Through active reflection, I drew near to the emotional and psychological realities of that season of life. With the past closed, I returned with the Arkansas boys to these familiar places, many of which I hadn't been to since I was a teenager. Often, through their own volition, the boys would do things that reconnected me to my past, creating a spark — whether it was swimming, climbing trees, smoking, venting, or blowing something up. There was always a way to find a piece of myself in their acts. This work explores how memories become true fictions, caricatures that are partial, incomplete, yet nonetheless real in their capacity to carry emotion and feeling forward.
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Global Made Local. While I’ve never been to Japan, I imagine it looks, feels, and tastes like Azabu, a quiet mainstay on the Left Bank of Paris, which has served premium teppanyaki for 23 years. The scents of wood and enticing cuisine — imagine the sweet and salty aroma of miso eggplant — float through the intimate, minimalist space. Light smoke from the grill even greets you upon entry, along with staff who embrace regulars like family. (I was a little jealous not to be one of them.) Take a seat at the counter to admire the chef searing delicate Wagyu beef or, for a bigger group, consider the tranquil downstairs area, where you can gather around a large table with a fountain trickling nearby. –Anna Kaplan
Finishing Touch. I was very much in need of a classic black belt when I came across Déhanche and its artful accessories collection, all handcrafted in Italy. The brand’s founder, Erin Webb, brings a climate-positive approach to artisanal traditions, pairing sustainable leather with recyclable hardware. The lightweight Constance Gold belt — black and decorated with sleek, 24-karat gold-plated hardware — adds polish and just enough interest to every outfit it adorns. –Elysha Beckerman
A Lease on Life. Tucked into the top floors of a former steel mill in Brooklyn, the private club SAA offers more than membership; it invites tenancy. The space combines wellness, community, and culture with its full spa and pool (accessible year-round) as well as regular programming and residencies. Many people stay all day, while some pop in and out, much like you would in your own apartment. When I visited, time had its own tempo. I spent hours in and by the pool, pausing with those around me to watch when the sky turned orange over the skyline. In an ever-shifting Brooklyn, the intimacy and stillness feel like true luxury. –LaTonya Yvette
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