As winter shrinks in the rearview mirror, its thrills remain frozen in our memories. And if travel is the pursuit of uncommon experiences, I’m careening towards one across a frozen field in a 580-horsepower Maserati.
Slated to host the alpine skiing events of the 2026 Winter Olympics, the Italian Alps are home to some of the best downhill terrain in the world. The resorts around Bormio offer nearly 70 miles of pistes, including the longest descent in Italy and a bevy of familiar winter activities, such as dogsledding, snowshoeing, and thermal hot springs. But, for the next 48 hours, I’ve traded skis for keys.
People typically go out of their way to avoid driving on ice. As a 25-year resident of Los Angeles, I’m more accustomed to warm, dry canyon roads. And while my teenage years in Ohio involved plenty of donuts in snowy parking lots, I fear my ice-driving skills are a little rusty. But the best adventures involve an experience beyond the brochure. So I’ve packed my thermal underwear and traveled 6,000 miles to take part in a snow-covered swan song: a frosty farewell to the last automobiles Maserati will produce with their legendary V8 engines, punctuated by limited “Ultima” editions of the brand’s Ghibli and Levante models, revered for their character and distinctive growl. Maserati’s Davide Kluzer describes them as “glorious” as we stand shivering in front of Bormio’s charming Hotel San Lorenzo. “Sound is one of the top three reasons people buy a Maserati,” Kluzer notes. “A Maserati without the sound is like a pizza without the cheese.”
After an unexpectedly restful night’s sleep that I attribute to Braulio, a locally made herbal amaro, I begin the morning by driving a Ghibli Trofeo along the gorgeous mountain roads that connect Bormio to Livigno, through tunnels carved into the mountainside; their arched construction provides a zoetrope-like flickering view of the Alps through the passenger window. The responsiveness of the steering and the near-freezing temperatures make an espresso feel unnecessary. Arriving at Livigno’s Ghiacciodromo ice-driving school, I’m introduced to Filippo, a Maserati Master Driving instructor who takes me on an orientation lap around the ice track built atop a frozen field and covered in two inches of fresh snow. Drifting the car around the course at full throttle, Filippo demonstrates the deft precision one might expect from Lindsey Vonn. When it’s my turn to take the wheel, Filippo points out only two of the car’s features: the seatbelt and the button to disable the electronic traction-control system. Looking to my right, I can’t help but notice the bright yellow bulldozer standing by, should I accidentally thrust a six-figure Maserati deep into a snowbank.
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Inspired by Filippo and bolstered by traction-computer confidence, I take off, skidding the rear-wheel-drive Ghibli through the cones with cautious, yet increasing grace. In fact, I keep all of the cars in the V8 lineup on track, except for a Quattroporte, which I spin into some deep snow. (Thankfully, no bulldozer was needed.) After more laps, my nerves give way to elation. With practice comes confidence, and with confidence comes speed. Steam billows from the wheels as the hot brakes melt the snow caked inside the rims.
Around noon, the sun breaks through the clouds. I roll down the driver’s window of a stunning red GranTurismo (equipped with Maserati’s new twin-turbo V6 Nettuno engine) and switch off its traction control. The engine snarls. Chunks of snow fly off the tires and into the car in a cacophonous, visceral thrill ride. Sliding past the Maserati reps near the warming house, I swear I see Filippo raise his eyebrows in approval.
On a trail near the track, curious cross-country skiers watch, drawn to the plumes of snow and deep reverberation. In the distance, others wait in a lift line. A ski vacation suddenly feels pedestrian, but an après-track lunch at the experimental fine-dining restaurant Al Peršéf, featuring smoked trout, beef tartare, barley soup, and braised veal cheeks, seems just right.
When I return to Bormio, the rumbling of my Maserati causes a young boy to drag his mom over to see the car. “Maserati, Mamma!” he exclaims, tugging at her arm with all his might. His eyes sparkle. I know just how he feels. Experiences like this confirm that the thrill of driving is alive and well, no matter what powers cars in the future. Perhaps the venue was appropriate. Just as the ice track will eventually melt into the landscape, these engines will also disappear. It’s a thought that gives this particular experience a bittersweet significance. But if these sonorous machines have reached the end of their journey, at least that journey involved roaring through the Italian Alps.
If you’re looking for summer driving adventures sure to thrill, Porsche offers experiences in Sardinia, Southern France, and the Austrian Alps. Alternatively, Canossa leads a grand tour of the Dolomites. For drivers who prefer to explore at their leisure, California’s State Route 33 through Ojai and the storied 1000 Miglia from Brescia to Rome and back are choice routes. Or chart your own course through beautiful driving roads with a Butler Map.
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Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch — the duo behind Roman and Williams, a design studio renowned for creating some of hospitality’s most iconic spaces, including its own acclaimed bar and shop — share five mind-blowing spaces worth traveling around the world to experience.
The Hollyhock House, Los Angeles. Frank Lloyd Wright's Hollyhock House is a masterpiece of design. The geometry of its layout, of the ornament, and careful trimwork is sublime. It's a unique combination of Japanese and American craftsmen, with enough theatrical drama to be an avant-garde expressionist opera set. It’s also primarily the work of master draftswoman and architect Marion Mahony Griffin, who drew all the plans, renderings, artwork, ornament of the home (and many others) for Wright. She was a genius. At the gift shop, there’s a Frank Lloyd Wright calendar and 11 of the images in it are her exquisite drawings.
The Okura Tokyo. The original Hotel Okura opened in the early ’60s and was sadly torn down a few years ago, but its lobby was carefully saved and put back together after an international group of creatives voiced their despair at its potential loss. The lobby is like something from films such as Black Rain or Inception combined with traditional old-school Japanese design on steroids. Best of all, it is for real — even if brought back to life after being destroyed. A beautiful Godzilla? It's a massive room, entirely wood with magnificent sculptural lighting that takes inspiration from cherry blossoms. It has no service; it is simply a massive, warm greeting hall. Perfect polite doormen, smiling coat people, and the largest ikebana floral display we, or you, have ever seen greet you, typically surrounded by beautiful, extravagant traditional Japanese wedding parties. Ex-prime ministers and diplomats in black suits sleep in mid-century leather chairs. Doors lead to meticulous bars, restaurants, and guest rooms (which, to be honest, are not particularly notable) in the new tower. Below is a haunted, silent, always empty mall where you can get a custom shirt made or buy a decorative brooch. No one speaks English. It’s magical and dreamlike.
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Ranakpur Temple, Rajasthan. A Jain temple in Rajasthan, India, built in the 15th century, the Ranakpur Temple complex is an amazing group of marble and white-stone temples surrounded by roses and wild monkeys. The buildings are highly detailed, with the most handsome chiseled features and facades in the world — they make Timothée Chalamet’s face look boring. Their stonework banding and the perfection of every component meeting and resolving into, around, and over each other is incredible. Enormous trees grow out from them, red roses are everywhere, and mischievous monkeys leap out to steal your sunglasses and cookies. Allegedly the occasional white peacock or black panther will sneak by, then you have basically seen all there is to see in life. We were engaged there. We fell in love with each other, and with everything there.
Clignancourt Flea Market, Paris. If you are not blessed enough to go to the École des Beaux-Arts for a decade or two to study every period of design in history, you can instead go to Clignancourt Flea Market a couple dozen times. Believe us, it will be a wider spectrum education. Aisle after aisle of alternatively meticulous and messy (but all interesting) booths line the neighborhood's streets and interiors. Specifically, visit the Paul Bert-Serpette section; every period from Roman to the 1980s is covered — not only the top 100 designs of these periods but also lesser-known genius work (and not-so-genius experimentation) is exhibited. The expressions of creativity, monstrous and sublime, all spill into the streets. Our education and eye were strengthened and fine-tuned by long days spent here during annual pilgrimages that span the last 30 years. Discovering a Bugatti chair and a giant 1970s Iraqi steel-and-glass sculpture that looked like Darth Vader carved it while on LSD widened and blew our minds. It still does.
Hiiragiya Ryokan, Kyoto. Hiiragiya was built over 200 years ago and sits in a fairly normal neighborhood in Kyoto, surrounded by modern buildings. It’s fairly subdued outside; inside it is everything but. To experience even one night sleeping in its flawless Edo period environment is life-changing. Once inside, you’re required to change into the traditional clothes provided in each guest room — a practice that begins to break you down and free your mind. Also sitting in a room with absolutely no furniture, except a low table with two cups on it, is difficult at first. You get better at it after 10 hours or so. That's after 10 hours of figuring out how the sliding doors and bathroom work. All of the details in the room force you to slow down, calm down, and (to be honest) just shut the hell up and stop complaining and asking for things. In the morning after a difficult sleep on a futon that was silently brought into the room at bedtime, I slid the screen open to see my own private courtyard garden for the first time. There was a slow, silent snow falling. A tree was collecting it on the branches, which also held one orange persimmon. As my tired eyes focused, I spotted a partridge sitting up there, calmly, with those long, colored tail feathers. It stared back at me. I was never again jaded. We try to go back once a year.
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CURRENT SOUNDTRACK
Chills & Thrills
T. Cole Rachel
In 2015 I met up with Madonna at a midtown Manhattan hotel to discuss her most recent album, but our conversation was ultimately about so much more. It remains one of the most surreal and thrilling experiences in my life. There are few things more nerve-racking than walking into a room to find Madonna sitting alone on a couch, saying, “Come sit next to me.”
Here’s to a summer filled with thrills, chills, unexpected encounters, and endless good vibes. Who knows what might be waiting just around the corner …
Floating On a Moment — Beth Gibbons I Want to See the Bright Lights Tonight — Linda and Richard Thompson Nightbird — Stevie Nicks Song of the Sex Monk — Tom of England Lunar Surface — Miaux In a Beautiful Place Out in the Country — Boards of Canada Thieves Like Us (Instrumental) — New Order Over and Over (12” Version) — Sylvester Deeper and Deeper — Madonna Spellbound — Siouxsie and the Banshees 2 Late — The Cure Deep Celestial — Laraaji November — Jim White and Marisa Anderson Slip Away — Perfume Genius The Ghost Has No Home — Cocteau Twins and Harold Budd All Night — Low I’ll Be Seeing You — Cat Power
PRESS PLAY, STAY COOL
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In the crisp, high-altitude morning air of Alta, Utah, The Greatest Snow on Earth® — a term coined in 1960, speaking to the astounding quality of the state’s powder — falls with the lightest touch. I set out, on skis, in the late-spring powder to spot the rare black rosy finch. The endangered, sparrow-sized bird breeds at the highest altitude (between 8,000 and 14,000 feet) of any North American species and is among few pink-plumed species. Studies of this elusive bird have uncovered genetic pathways shared between them and human communities in the Tibetan Himalayas. They brave snowstorms, gale-force winds, and bone-chilling temperatures with a resilience that borders on miraculous.
For spotting the rosy finch, Alta is the place, year-round. No mega-mountain condo developments or shops here. Instead, there’s a sustainability-minded community committed to long-term preservation of their mountain environment. The Alta Environmental Center and Tracy Aviary are part of a black rosy finch conservation and tracking program, using radio frequency identification via bird boxes and feeders installed on the mountain. My birding-on-skis guide leads me off-piste through pristine subalpine firs to where the objects hang in quiet, untracked glades.
There, chirping mountain chickadees, red-breasted nuthatches, and pine grosbeaks come and go. We wait and wait in the snow-covered greenery until a blur of black and neon pink flashes in, nibbles at the feeder, and disappears into the snowy sky. The black rosy finch is a fleeting vision of beauty and obscurity, a reflection of the intricate dance of life and survival, of adaptability and resilience encoded in the design of nature itself.
Come winter snow or summer sunshine, Alta Lodge promises an exhilarating mountain stay and ideal pushing off point for birding, hiking, or skiing. Built in 1940 and later renovated by John Sugden, a student of Mies van der Rohe, the Bauhaus-style property — with its mid-century Bertoia chairs and ski-in, ski-out location — feels like a classic European ski lodge, with floor-to-ceiling windows framing either skiers shushing down the powdery slopes or flower-filled alpine fields.
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There’s a Mayan myth about how the jaguar got its spots. Monkeys threw fruit down on the ferocious feline, formerly coated in pure blonde fur. Pelted with dark juices, its hide became speckled with stains: spots.
This legend (shrunk down for the purposes of this tidy newsletter) gave birth to one of the most gorgeous cocktails I’ve had in a while. Simply entitled “Jaguar,” it contains honey-hued liquid (whiskey- and banana syrup-based) and a single, floating chocolate-coated banana disc. It’s one of many inspired offerings at Zapote Bar, a locale of mind-bogglingly high craft situated within the Rosewood Mayakoba, a jewel of a resort on Mexico’s Riviera Maya, harmoniously architected within a lagoon. My entire stay was a delight. The resort’s spa, muted and marble, is home to a holy foursome: steam room, sauna, jacuzzi, and (extremely) cold plunge pool. A rotation through it results in a state of fizzy-brained nirvana. It’s a wellness destination matched only by the exquisite hedonism of its accoladed cocktail program (ranked 11th at the North America 50 Best Bars Awards 2024), with innovation led by head bartender Joshua Monaghan.
In a cheeky bowler hat, he’s a captivating storyteller, generous with his wisdom of Yucatan ingredients and the flavors, textures, and colors they impart to cocktails. Zapote’s behind-the-scenes laboratory houses buckets of original ferments, beakers of mysterious liquids, and hand-written scrawls of a project’s various stages. The whole concept is, quite simply, a toast to paradise.
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At the northernmost reaches of Lhuentse, one of the least populated districts in the Himalayan nation of Bhutan, rests the imposing Dungkhar nagtshang (manor home). Near the country’s border with Tibet, this incredible estate is the ancestral home of Bhutan's royal Wangchuck dynasty. In and of itself, it is a truly spectacular sight. But when the young monk who had been our guide through the four-story structure began throwing the folds of his brilliant red robe over his shoulder, it was a moment I knew I had to capture. The folds of the fabric felt alive as they caught the wind. The photo encapsulates much of what I love about this Buddhist kingdom: incredible architecture, spirituality, and fleeting moments of grace at the end of a road less traveled.
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Creature Comforts. While I would never have the audacity to try to publicly identify the best burger in New York, I can confidently say that one of the best burgers in this city is currently on the menu at Golden Swan. The brainchild of restaurateur Matthew Abramcyk and Chef Doug Brixton, the restaurant is equal parts fine-dining and luxe lounge, with an eclectic menu that offers everything from a duck terrine to housemade cavatelli. On my recent visit, the much-lauded Brixton Burger did not disappoint. Made from a melange of chuck, brisket, and short rib and served with gruyère cheese, balsamic onion, and a side of duck-fat fries, it’s the kind of gussied-up comfort food I live for, made all the more enjoyable when accompanied by a signature “martini” featuring mezcal and pineapple. – T. Cole Rachel
Up (Up) and Away. Space Perspective has recently unveiled a test capsule designed to carry eight explorers (and a captain) to the edge of space. Attached to a hydrogen balloon, the finished pod will offer a superlative environment and spectacular views over its six-hour journey. Perhaps a spaceflight playlist is in order. –John Chuldenko
Save Face. I’m in a super fun, new era wherein my face spontaneously breaks out into angry, ruddy allergic patches. It’s sensitive, dry, and hard to make sense of. Who doesn’t love a mystery? One moisturizer has become an unexpected ally in this sad little battle: Gel Crème Lejand by Furcy Botanik. Made with djon djon mushroom and guava leaves, it’s light enough for reactive skin yet incredibly hydrating. It also has a neutralizing effect, settling out redness and bringing a nice glow to pallid areas. I’ve just finished my jar, scooping out the last bits (a substance not dissimilar to the custard found inside a donut) with desperate, clawing fingers. –Sophie Mancini
Fleeting Flavors. For three short days — starting today, June 13 — Chef (and Dossier contributor) Mina Stone is popping up at Brooklyn’s Marlow & Sons, serving traditional Greek dishes prepared with local produce and products. (If you saw last week’s newsletter, you know her ties to the country’s cuisine are real). Snag a reservation before Saturday’s final dinner. If you can’t make it to the restaurant in time, console yourself with her New York Times Best Cookbook of the Year Lemon, Love & Olive Oil and her pasteli granola recipe. –Erin Dixon
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